Sideways Stash Socks — Knit a Colorful T‑Shaped Sock from Leftover DK Yarn
These Sideways Stash Socks are a fun, practical way to use leftover DK yarn while making a cosy, eye‑catching pair of socks. The unique sideways construction creates a T‑shaped upper that wraps into a cuff; the heel and sole are then worked separately before picking up for the toe and welt. The pattern uses a main colour for the body and multiple contrast colours for stripes — ideal for stashbusting.
The pattern below includes materials, tension, abbreviations and step‑by‑step instructions for knitting the socks. Gauge, foot length and some row counts are given — adjust where noted to customise fit.
Materials
- 2 x 50g balls of double knitting (DK) yarn for main shade, plus a variety of leftover DK contrast colours.
- One pair and one set of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends (for flat and 4‑needle in‑the‑round work).
Tension
22 stitches = 4 ins.
Size
Length of foot: 9 inches (adjustable).
Abbreviations
- M = main shade (olive in the sample).
- C = contrast colours.
- sl1 = slip the next stitch.
- k2tog / p2tog = knit/purl two stitches together (decrease).
- psso = pass slipped stitch over (used as a decrease; effectively ssk).
A word on the wool
The sample uses Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour and four other colours for contrasts. You can increase or reduce the number of contrast colours as you wish.
Overview of construction
The sock is worked in three main parts:
- First section — the sideways T‑shaped upper and cuff, worked flat on two needles and joined at the back seam.
- Second section — the heel and sole, worked in the main shade on the two needles with short rows and picked‑up stitches.
- Toe and finishing — pick up for the toe and work in the round on double‑pointed needles, then pick up and knit the ribbed welt.
Instructions
First section (knit 2)
Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.
Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.
Repeat rows 1–10 using different contrasts once more.
Next row (wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63 sts]
Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1–10 three times, and then rows 1–4.
Next row (wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23 sts]
Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6–10, then rows 1–10 once more, and then rows 1–4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).
Second section (heel and sole)
The remainder of the sock is worked entirely in the main shade.
For the heel: with the right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down “T”, pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:
Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.
Next row (right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.
Turn the heel:
Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14 sts]
Next row (right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.
Now work the instep decreases and sole:
Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts ≈ 1 in.]
Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole — upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more or fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]
Toe
Now we move to working in the round.
Knit 11 sts on first double‑pointed needle, 11 sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.
Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]
Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.
Making up
Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).
Using double‑pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60–66 sts around top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.
Sew in all ends.