Knitted Mediterranean Blue Sweater

Oh, the Knitted Mediterranean Blue Sweater is a true gem! Its rich shade of blue reminds me of the calming sea on a sunny day, making it a perfect addition to any wardrobe. The intricate knitted pattern gives it a cozy and stylish feel, perfect for chilly evenings by the beach or a casual day out with friends. You can easily pair it with your favorite jeans for a laid-back look, or dress it up with a skirt for a more put-together ensemble. Trust me, once you slip into this sweater, you'll never want to take it off!

Materials

• 12 (13) x 50g balls DK equivalent mercerised cotton No 4 in colour "Florida".
• 3 mm and 4mm needles.

Tension

• 19 sts x 34 rows over pattern on 4mm needles.
• [22 sts to 4 inches over st st.]

Size matters

• 32 - 34 / 36 - 38 inch chest.
• [Editor's Note: This is meant to be a loose fit with actual measurements about 42 (44) inches.]
• Actual measurements shown on diagram in centimetres.

Abbreviations:

• yfd: "yarn forward" to make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
• skpo: slip one stitch knitwise and pass the slipped stitch over (to decrease a stitch).
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• st st: stocking stitch - one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was mercerised a cotton DK at approximately 101m per 50 grams

Instructions.

Instructions for 2 sizes, larger size in brackets.

Pattern Stitch

Worked on a multiple of 40 stitches plus 22 as follows:

1st row (right side): p1, * p19, [k2tog yfd] 10 times, k1; * repeat from * to * ending p21.

2nd row: purl.

3rd to 20th rows: repeat 1st and 2nd rows 9 times more.

21st row: k1, * [yfd, skpo] 10 times, p19, k1 *; repeat from * to *, ending [yfd, skpo] 10 times, k1.

22nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.

23rd to 40th rows: repeat 21st and 22nd rows 9 times more.

These 40 rows form one pattern.

Back

Using 3 mm needles, cast on 97 (101) stitches and work in rib:

**

1st row (right side): p1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

2nd row: k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 3 inches from the beginning, ending with a 2nd rib row.

**

Next row (increasing): rib 14 (16), [increase in the next stitch, rib 16] 4 times; increase in the next stitch, rib 14 (16).

[102 (106) sts].

Change to 4mm needles and purl 1 row on the wrong side - then work in pattern as follows:

1st size - work exactly as given at the beginning for the pattern rows.

Special instructions for 2nd Size: For the 1st row begin with "p3" instead of p1, and end with p23 instead of p21.

For the 21st row: k1, [yfd, skpo] 11 times, p19, k1; * [yfd, skpo] 10 times, p19, k1 *; repeat from * to *; ending [yfd, skpo] 11 times, k1.

[Editor's Note: You have 4 more stitches on the larger size and these "special instructions" are essentially just working extra stitches on each end of the basic pattern layout.]

Now continue in pattern without shaping until work measures 22 (23¼) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong-side row.

Neck and Shoulder Shaping:

Next row: pattern 41 (42), and leave these stitches on a spare needle for the right back.

Cast off the next 20 (22) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on 41 (42) stitches only now remaining on the needle for the left back and work 1 row (purl) ending at the neck edge.

***

Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row, then 2 stitches at the same edge on the next 3 alternate rows, and finally 1 stitch on the next 4 alternate rows; at the same time, keep the side edge straight until work measures 23¾ (24¼) inches, ending at side (armhole) edge and then casting off for the shoulder: 7 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows; work 1 row then cast off the remaining 6 (7) stitches to complete the shoulder slope.

Rejoin the yarn to neck edge of right back stitches, and complete as for left back from *** to end.

Front

Work as given for the back until the increase row has been worked. Change to 4mm needles and purl 1 row.

Now begin working in the pattern but starting with the 21st row; for the larger size, arrange this row as you did for the 21st row of the back.

Continue working in the pattern until work measures 21¼ (22½) inches, from the beginning, ending with a wrong-side row.

Neck and Shoulder Shaping:

Next row: pattern 43 (44) and leave these stitches on a spare needle for the left front. Cast off the next 16 (18) stitches, pattern to end.

Continue on 43 (44) stitches now remaining on the needle for the right front row and work one row.

***

Cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next row, 2 stitches at the same edge on next 4 alternate rows, and 1 stitch on the next 5 alternate rows; at the same time, when work matches the back to the beginning of the shoulder, work shapings as for the left back.

Rejoin yarn to neck edge of left front stitches and complete as for right front from *** to end.

Sleeves

Using 3mm needles, cast on 49 (53) stitches and work as for the back welt from ** to **.

Next row (increasing): rib 3 (5), [increase in the next stitch, rib2, increase in the next stitch, rib 3] 6 times, increase in the next stitch, rib 3 (5). [62 (66) sts]

Change to 4mm needles and purl 1 row, then work in pattern beginning with the 21st row as follows:

21st row: purl 0 (2), kl, [yfd, skpo] 10 times, p19, k1, [yfd, skpo] 10 times, p1 (3).

Thus the border stitches at the sides begin forming new pattern panels. Work 3 more rows as set, then increase 1stitch at each end of the next row, every following 6th row 7 (10) times; then every following 4th row 18 (15) times. Work the extra stitches into the pattern, but do not a yfd the side edges.

Continue On 114 (118) stitches until work measures 17¾ (18½) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong-side row.

Cast off all stitches.

Steaming and Blocking

Before joining any seams it is advisable to block and steam the work to ensure neat seams. Pin the pieces right side down onto an ironing board pulling them into shape as shown on the diagram, and pinning the pattern sections only; ensure that sides of the back and front are parallel with each other, and the sides of the sleeves slope outwards at the same angle each side.

Lap a damp cloth on pattern sections an hold a warm iron so that it just touches the cloth, and is allowed to penetrate the work.

Remove cloth and leave the work in place until it is dry. Take great care not to press or steam the ribbed sections.

Neck Border

Join right shoulder seam.

With right side of work facing, and using 3mm needles, pick up and knit 68 (70) stitches around the front neck edge, and 58 (60) stitches across back neck. [126 (130) sts]

Beginning with a purl row, work 8 rows in stocking stitch, then cast off loosely.

Make Up

Join the left shoulder seam and the ends of the neck border.

Fold this border in half to the wrong side and slip stitch the cast-off edge to the back of the picked-up stitches.

On each side edge, mark a point 11¾ (12¼ ) inches down from the shoulder seams for the position of the armholes, and sew the cast-off edge of the sleeves between the markers.

Join side and sleeve seams.